Milan’s Creepy Skull Cathedral

 

Milan is home to the incredible Duomo Cathedral, some pretty amazing shopping, and some fabulous high-end dining and fashion. The city was my first stop in a quick visit to Italy in March of 2019. I loved everything that Milan is known for. However, my favorite part of the city is a hidden, slightly creepy, skull filled gem.

 

Milan’s Skull Cathedral

San Bernardino alle Ossa, or Milan’s skull cathedral, is a tiny church located near the impressive Duomo Cathedral in Milan. Tucked away in a small corner next to yet another large church, I almost missed it…and I was looking for it! It’s no wonder that tourists, who don’t even know of its existence, don’t stumble upon the skull cathedral.

 

The History of the Skulls

The skull room was built in the 1200s next to a hospital and cemetery. During a local epidemic, the hospital and cemetery ran out of room for the dead, and began placing skeletal remains in a building near the hospital to make room for new victims. Eventually, the room was fully decorated with lavish paintings and skeleton sculptures to honor the dead, and the church was built onto it.

 

 

What to Expect in Milan’s Skull Cathedral

San Bernardino alle Ossa is not necessarily a big tourist attraction. Due to being located in a local church, the hours are a little strange. I found online that the hours for the ossuary are 8am to 12pm, Monday through Saturday and closed on Sunday. However, I had to try twice to see the skull room, as the first time the doors were locked. The church is located very close to the famous Duomo di Milano cathedral, so you can always check the hours posted on the front door while in the area.

 

When you walk in, the ossuary will be immediately to your right, past an alter. When I visited, a church worker was there to collect a €1 donation per person, and you can stay in the ossuary as long as you want. No flash photography is allowed, and the room is kept immensely quiet out of respect for the rest of the church, for the dead, and potential worshippers. Remember, you are in someone’s church. Please be respectful!

 

In the Ossuary

 

There are sculptures created from skeletal remains on every wall, with an alter for the Virgin Mary, surrounded by skulls, at the front of the church. The ceiling is beautifully painted, and there are pews to sit on and quietly admire the room. The most interesting aspect, to me, was that skulls of criminals that were beheaded were separated from the rest of the dead.

 

The air in the room immediately felt solemn as I entered the ossuary, and I stayed for much longer than I thought I would. It was almost as if there was a trance put on every visitor. It was intensely creepy, but strangely magical at the same time.

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I highly encourage you to visit Milan’s skull cathedral if you are ever in the city. It’s definitely more stunning, and more creepy, in person than pictures will ever show!

 

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